Cynar Boulevardier Eggnog and the Unified Theory of Cocktail ‘Nog

Eggnog anything?

More than two years ago, in the very first edition of this newsletter, I argued that almost anything in the booze universe could be turned into an Old Fashioned.

Obviously, there are limitations to this theory: You’re probably not going to make an Old Fashioned out of a bottle of Pinot Grigio or limoncello. (Although now that I say that, someone will inevitably send me a recipe for a Pinot Grigio Old Fashioned.)

But the basic rule of thumb is sound: Most any high-proof, distilled spirit can be turned into something like an Old Fashioned.

I am coming around to a similar sort of theory for eggnog.

The basic idea is this: Nearly any Manhattan-class stirred drink, including most drinks in the Negroni category¹, can be refashioned as eggnog. 

There are probably some exceptions: I’m not quite sure I would expect a Martini eggnog to work, since the underlying dryness of the drink might clash with the rich, eggy, sweetness of the eggnog. But even in that case, I could imagine some Martini-adjacent drinks working quite well in an eggnog format. 

Manhattans and Negronis both combine spirits and fortified wines with something bitter — a bitter liqueur like Campari in the case of a Negroni, and aromatic dasher-bottle bitters in the case of a Manhattan. As it happens, some of America’s founders enjoyed their ‘nog with a mix of high-proof spirits like rum and brandy plus some fortified wine, such as sherry. Meanwhile, eggnog goes very well with wintry spices like allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg — the same sort of spice-rack flavors you often find in aromatic bitters or amari. 

I admit to advancing this theory without total certainty: I obviously have not tried every possible version, so the universal applicability remains unproven. Some Manhattan-adjacent drinks, like the Bitter Guiseppe, which contains no high-proof spirit, and also includes lemon juice, would at the very least have to be adjusted in order to work in an eggnog format, and might just not work at all. But based on multiple successful experiments over a couple of holiday seasons, I have some confidence that the theory is, at the very least, correct in most instances.

To demonstrate, we are going to take a drink that can be understood as a sort of cross between a Manhattan and a Negroni — the Boulevardier — and we are going to make a nog out of it. 

We’ll use Cynar, of course. (Put it in everything!)

The Case for Making Homemade Eggnog

The main reason to make homemade eggnog is that it is dangerously delicious.

If you’ve only ever had the thin, sugary, vaguely-processed-tasting stuff you buy premade from the grocery store dairy aisle, you may be under the impression that eggnog is sort of slimy and gross.

The first time you have the homemade version, then, it’s a revelation: It’s thick, rich, fresh, sweet but not overpowering, imbued with complex flavors and a boozy kick. Homemade eggnog is one of the great, decadent, pleasures of the holiday season. 

Homemade eggnog is also fast, inexpensive, and easy to make. Frankly, there’s a good chance you already have the necessary ingredients around the house. If so, you can whip up a batch in less time than it takes to take a trip to the store and return home. 

Eggnog might seem complex, but it can be made with affordable, easy-to-procure bottles of booze, and a handful of grocery store staples: eggs, whole milk, heavy cream, sugar, and salt. You need a measuring cup or two, a stand mixer or blender, and a fridge-friendly bottle to store your nog in. Once you’ve gathered all your ingredients on the counter, you’ll be able to make the eggnog, bottle it, store it in the refrigerator, and clean up in 10 minutes or less. The caveat is that you have to let the eggnog chill in the fridge for a full day before you taste your drink — but the actual work of making the nog is short and simple. 

And because it’s made in batches, it’s great for a crowd. Today’s recipe makes about 40 ounces, give or take, which makes it perfect for groups of six to eight people. But it can be scaled up or down to serve larger or smaller groups. 

Homemade eggnog also lasts practically forever so long as you store it in the refrigerator. So not only can you whip up a big batch for serving at a party, or for parceling out each night over the course of the holiday season, you can bottle up small amounts for friends, and give them away to pals and trusted associates. Homemade eggnog is for sharing. 

It’s also, of course, for drinking. 

It’s a Boulevardier — Plus Dairy, Salt, and Sugar

The Boulevardier was one of the earliest drinks I wrote about for this newsletter, and I’d encourage those who want a deep dive into the drink to revisit that piece.